Showing posts with label sul. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sul. Show all posts

Saturday, May 6, 2017

Welcome to the World of Toners

ALL of the Toners
Astringent TonersBoosting Toners
Hydrating TonersMist Toners
Did you know that there are multiple types of toners? Why do we even need toners anyway? Well, I picked up this great book called The Little Book of Skin Care by Charlotte Cho (of Soko Glam) that explained the reasoning behind toners just perfectly:
Think of toners as prep school for your pores: It gives them a head start for what comes next and will help your skin absorb your skin-care products. Picture your skin as a dried-up sponge. If you try to put a heavy cream on it, a brittle, dry sponge won’t accept it – it isn’t “prepped” for moisture. But if you wet the sponge, the cream will sink in more easily. (p. 42)
Looking at toners in this light, it’s quite obvious now that if you plan on upping your skincare routine, you should consider buying one (or multiple, like me – a hoarder).
Different Types of Toners
  • Astringent Toners
    • These are the toners that we westerners are most accustomed to using – we’ve known them to be rather drying or simply alcoholic in nature. But the truth is there’s a lot more to them than this. Some people need astringent toners more than others (esp. oily, acne-prone people), but they can be helpful to everybody. They’re meant to clean the remaining gunk and/or makeup you didn’t fully wash off with your cleanser and they penetrate much deeper into your pores.
    • Common astringent ingredients found in toners include (but are not limited to):
      • Alcohol
      • Witch Hazel 
      • AHAs (Alpha Hydroxy Acid)*
          • Citric Acid
          • Glycolic acid
          • Lactic Acid
          • Malic Acid
          • Mandelic Acid
          • Tartaric Acid
      • BHAs (Beta Hydroxy Acid)*
        • Benzoic Acid 
        • Salicylic Acid
        • Rose (Water/Extract)
        • Citrus (Extract)
    • Astringent toners pictured above: Mamonde - Rose Water Toner (contains rose extract – a very mild astringent) and Missha - Time Revolution Clear Toner (contains a very small percentage of both BHAs and AHAs, making it a very mild formulation as well).
  • Boosting Toners
    • These toners are very interesting. Some may not even classify them as “toners” in themselves, but I most certainly do (because they can be used in place of a toner in your skincare routine), so under this category I also include “boosting toners” that are referred to as:
        • First Essence [Treatment]
        • First Essence Booster
    • Generally speaking, you would want to use a boosting toner before another toner (but never before an astringent one) because, as the name implies, it “boosts” whatever product that follows it. They can be used with or without an accompanying toner. Boosting toners tend to be thicker and less watery than other types. They generally contain a handful of extracts. These toners are also generally geared more toward those with dry skin types, but I find that they can be beneficial to all skin types.
    • Boosting toners pictured above: Missha - Geum Sul First Essence Booster and Missha - Time Revolution Night Repair Turn Over Control Booster.
  • Hydrating Toners
    • While westerners focus on astringent toners, easterners focus on the opposite: hydrating toners. Had I known these existed in my teenage years, I would have been all over them because of how amazing they are. As the name implies, these toners are “hydrating,” meaning they add to the water content of your skin. Hydrating toners are beneficial to all skin types.
    • Before I was even aware of it, I always thought “hydration” and “moisturization” meant the same thing. Wrong. Hydration involves adding water content to your skin, while moisturization involves adding oil content to your skin. “Ideal skin” (meaning not overly dry nor oily) has a balanced water-oil ratio. We spend so much time worrying about lotions and creams (which add oil content) that we forget about hydration! This is where these beautiful hydrating toners come in.
    • Common hydrating ingredients found in toners include (but are not limited to):
        • Ceramides
        • Ferments  
        • Glycerin
        • Propanediol 
    • Hydrating toners pictured above: Hada Labo - Gokujyun Lotion (Clear) and Missha - Super Aqua Ultra Waterful Active Toner.
  • Mist Toners
    • Mist toners fall under astringent, boosting, or hydrating types of toners, but more often than not, you will find that they are usually geared toward light hydration. They’re perfect for all skin types.
        • Fun tip 1: They can be used between different layers of products in your routine if you hate that sticky feeling that essences, serums, etc. can leave behind.
        • Fun tip 2: They can be used even after you put on makeup if you feel like your skin needs just a little more hydration without ruining it.
        • Fun tip 3: Use a mist toner to set your makeup!
        • Fun tip 4: Spray your mist toner onto a beauty cushion or sponge before application for a more even and well-adhered look. 
    • Mist toners pictured above: The Creme Shop - Chia Seed Calming Spritz TonerTheFaceShop - Chia Seed Soothing Mist Toner, and Innisfree - Aloe Revital Skin Mist.
I realize after writing all of this, someone new to skincare could easily be overwhelmed. If you are looking to start off easy, I would suggest starting with a hydrating toner!
* Read more about the differences between AHAs and BHAs here.
Always use a sunscreen if you incorporate AHAs and/or BHAs into your routine.

First Impressions: Missha - MISA Geum Sul Vitalizing Finisher

Packaging: It comes in a sturdy, pink glass bottle (60ml) with a cap that pulls off to reveal an easy-to-use nozzle. It pumps out an even amount of product (I use three full pumps for my entire face). And as with all MISA Geum Sul products, you see that gorgeous flower design on the top of the cap that shimmers in the light. This is one of those products you just have to flaunt.
Price: $40 USD from Missha’s US site, though I imagine you could get this for a cheaper price on other websites (or if you’re a VIP member on the Missha website like my mother and I am, muwahaha).
Consistency: It has a semi-thick consistency that I find fairly easy to spread. It’s very interesting, because this product is a “finisher,” which is exactly what the name implies: you use this at the very end of your skincare routine to seal everything in. But in addition to being the finishing touch to your skincare routine, it also works as a primer before starting your makeup routine. For this reason, it is advertised as a product you can use in both the AM and PM (which I definitely do). I find that the consistency falls perfectly in between a cream and a primer, so it is not very thick like most creams are, but it is also not as silicone-like as most primers are. And because this perfectly suits those who dislike using thick creams and silicone-heavy primers, it works best for people whose skin is normal/combo/oily, but not dry, because it would most likely not be enough. The finish, as you can see from the photos of my hand above, is dewy with a very, very slight shine. I say “slight,” because I find that when I use it on my face and I let it dry/sink in completely, my skin actually resembles somebody with a normal skin type. I am under the strong impression that this product adequately provides me with the perfect oil-water (moisture-hydration) content due to its ingredient list. In fact, this finisher doesn’t cause my skin to become oily after time has passed like most lotions or creams do! A rare incident, indeed!
Scent: My very first thought when I used this was that it smelled old lady-ish (lol), but it is best described as herbal/medicinal. While I am not personally big on this scent, it dissipates quickly. The only other product I have tried from this line (the MISA Geum Sul Vitalizing Tension Pact SPF30, PA++) smells exactly the same, so I would expect all of the MISA Geum Sul products to smell similarly.
Ingredients: According to CosDNA, this product contains multiple acne triggers and irritants. As someone with combo, acne-prone skin, I am usually very cautious about using products with both acne triggers and irritants, but Missha has yet to disappoint me with its ingredients. This product did not break me out, clog my pores, or what have you, but if my skin is over-exfoliated, then the alcohol can be slightly irritating – nothing absolutely terrible, but I imagine this product would not suit those with very sensitive skin. But all in all, the ingredients do not worry me because most acne triggers and irritants are lower down on the list. Had the alcohol (in particular) been higher up on the list, I might have been more hesitant to try out this product.
First Impressions/Overall Review: I really enjoy using this product because something about “sealing everything in” just makes me giddy. I can easily see myself purchasing this item again because it feels so nice on my skin, but chances are it would not fare well with my skin during the cold, dry winters of Canada. If I do get my hands on this product again, it will most likely be during the spring, summer, and possibly even autumn. (And again, I would like to emphasize how amazing it is in that it didn’t cause my skin to become oily after time had passed, which is a truly rare sight.) 4/5.